What we handle on a window project
Window replacements are run by two kinds of crews: ones that focus on the install (flashing, shimming, sealing, code compliance) and ones that focus on the sale (high-pressure same-day pricing, "$5,000 off if you sign tonight," vague U-factor claims). We are the first kind. The window you can buy from us is a real product with a real spec sheet; the install is real work that protects the framing for 20+ years.
Our scope on a typical window project includes:
- Walk-through measure & assessment — every opening measured for rough opening dimensions and existing-frame condition. Insert vs full-frame call made per opening and explained. Historic-district / HOA restrictions checked.
- Product selection — vinyl, fiberglass, or aluminum-clad wood per your selection. U-factor and SHGC numbers listed per unit on the quote. Glass package (double-pane low-E argon, triple-pane, tempered where required by code) chosen based on opening function (operable, fixed, near-floor, near-shower).
- Code compliance — egress windows where required (any room used as a sleeping space below grade or with no other code-compliant exit), tempered glass within 18" of doors and floors, fall-protection where required.
- Existing window removal — sash and glass removed cleanly. For full-frame replacements, the entire frame removed back to rough opening. Existing weight pockets (in older homes) accessed and inspected.
- Rough opening prep — for full-frame: rough opening cleaned, inspected for rot or framing damage, repaired where needed, sized accurately to the new window per manufacturer's rough-opening spec.
- Sill pan flashing — on full-frame replacements, sill pan installed and sloped to drain to the exterior. The sill pan catches any water that ever penetrates and routes it back outside.
- Window install — window set into the opening, shimmed plumb / level / square, fastened per manufacturer spec (not too few fasteners, not over-driven). Operating sash tested for smooth operation before flashing closes everything in.
- Flashing tape — jamb flashing tape lapped over sill pan, head flashing tape lapped over jamb (shingle-style, water-shedding direction). Applied per manufacturer spec, not winged.
- Insulation — minimal-expansion foam or fiberglass batts in the gap between the window frame and the rough opening. We do not over-stuff or use high-expansion foam (it bows the frame and binds the operating sash).
- Trim — exterior trim or brick-mold replaced or reinstalled. Interior casing and stool replaced or reinstalled per scope. Color-matched touch-up provided.
- Caulking & sealing — high-quality polyurethane or hybrid sealants at trim joints. Backer rod where joints exceed sealant span.
- Cleanup & final walk — existing windows hauled (most are recyclable), site cleaned, manufacturer warranty registered, customer walk-through with operating-sash demonstration.
Energy ratings — what U-factor and SHGC actually mean
Window energy ratings are reported on every NFRC-rated unit. Two numbers matter most:
- U-factor — how much heat passes through the unit. Lower is better. Code minimum in our IECC Climate Zone 4: U ≤ 0.32. Energy Star: U ≤ 0.30. Mid-range vinyl: U 0.27 to 0.30. Premium fiberglass or wood-clad: U 0.22 to 0.27. Triple-pane: U 0.17 to 0.22.
- SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient) — how much solar heat passes through the glass. Lower is better in our climate. Code minimum: SHGC ≤ 0.40. Most low-E coatings hit SHGC 0.25 to 0.30, which significantly reduces summer cooling cost without much winter penalty.
- VT (Visible Transmittance) — how much visible light passes through. Higher is brighter; consider for north-facing rooms where you want light. Most low-E hits VT 0.50 to 0.55.
We list the U-factor, SHGC, and VT for each window on the line-item quote. You can directly compare the numbers between brands and product lines. Anyone who refuses to put the U-factor on paper is selling you something else.
Pricing factors
Kansas City window replacements generally fall into these per-window installed bands on a typical 36x60 single-hung opening:
- Mid-range vinyl insert (Pella ProLine 150, Andersen 100 Series) — $700 to $1,400 per window.
- Premium vinyl / fiberglass insert (Andersen 400, Marvin Essential, Pella Lifestyle) — $1,200 to $2,500 per window.
- Aluminum-clad wood insert (Andersen 400 Series interior wood, Marvin Elevate) — $1,800 to $3,500 per window.
- Full-frame replacement — add 30-50% per window over insert pricing.
- Custom shapes, oversized, specialty glass — $200 to $1,500+ per unit premium depending on configuration.
- Picture / fixed units — usually 30-50% cheaper than operable units of the same size.
Where your project lands depends on:
- Total window count — per-window labor drops 10-20% on jobs with 10+ windows due to setup amortization.
- Insert vs full-frame mix — mostly inserts cost less. Mostly full-frame costs more but produces a measurably better result on older homes.
- Rotted framing — we assume some rotted sill or jack stud on older homes ($200-$600 per opening for repair) and price transparently.
- Trim work — reusing existing trim is cheapest. New interior casing per opening: $80-$200 per window. New exterior trim or brick-mold: $80-$250 per window.
- Custom or specialty glass — you control this. Stock glass is cheapest; tempered, obscure, decorative all add cost.
- Historic-district approval — if approval requires specific divided-light pattern or trim profile, that constrains product choice and may add cost.
Why customers pick Tessera for windows
- You hear back fast. Quote within 24 hours, not three weeks.
- U-factor, SHGC, and VT listed on the quote. You can compare numbers.
- Insert vs full-frame call is honest, made per opening, not pushed because one is more profitable.
- Windows are flashed correctly — sill pan, jamb tape, head flashing — not just caulked at the perimeter.
- No same-day high-pressure pricing tactics. The quote is real and stays valid for 30 days.
- The schedule includes material lead time honestly.
- You retain 10% until the punch list is fully signed off.